All posts by Steve Stern

A long weekend – or short week – trip to New England and Down East

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A couple of months ago, Michele was invited, along with several other women,  to see the fall color at Gail Cousins’ new home in New Hampshire. Then, a couple of weeks ago, she had the brilliant idea that I should join her in Boston for our anniversary. A couple of days ago, we started thinking it would be  fun to go to Acadia National Park, instead, and that is where the trip finalized.

I flew to Boston Saturday, October 26th,  to join Michele. All day Saturday, it turned out, when the flight, with a stop in Denver, was added to the time shift. Michele had booked me into a hotel in Winthrop, theoretically near the airport, but pretty far away in a cab whose driver didn’t know the way. The next morning, however, I could get up, walk about 200 feet to see the boats in the cove and, behind them, the planes taking off from Logan.

After a walk on the beach,

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I caught a bus to New Hampshire where Michele was going to meet me. It was the first time I had taken a bus in, probably, fifty years and I don’t think much has changed. When I say bus, I don’t mean a city bus around San Francisco or Rome. I mean an interstate type bus; a bus where you buy a ticket at a counter and then stand in line, a bus where they put your luggage underneath in a special compartment, the kind of bus Patricia Neal got on in Hud.

Michele met me with Karen Amy and we had lunch in Nashua, New Hampshire, my first picturesque New England City but far from my last one.

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That night, we had an excellent lobster dinner a Gail Cousins’ home and watched the Red Sox beat the Cardinals 4-2. It was a great start to New England and I forgot to take any pictures.

In the morning, we got serious on the trip part of our Trip driving to the coast. Michele was driving and I was navigating because I hadn’t yet been added to the drivers’ list on our rent-a-car. Michele driving and my navigating is not our best combination. I suck at navigating with a smartphone, primarily because I have no idea of the scale, what with the pinching and un-pinching the map back and forth, from an overview of the western hemisphere to one mile to the inch. Looking out the window didn’t help much either, everything looked pretty much the same.

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We did finally reach the coast and then drove about 150 feet north into Maine for a planning lunch.

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In the mid 70’s, I went with a friend to Death Valley for the first time as an adult. I had a long list of things I wanted to see and the friend said something like, I don’t care what we see, but I want to really see it. I don’t want to not see a whole bunch of stuff. That advice has informed all of Michele and my trips. We might not see much, but we take our time and do see what we see. We decided to take our time driving north along the coast, stopping often.

Michele also like to base a trip on a theme to give it coherence. At the restaurant where we had lunch, it was oysters-on-sale day and they had a list of featured oysters, with handy descriptions, many from Maine. We did not know that, in some circles, Maine is as famous for oysters as lobster but we were learning. Michele’s mom loved raw oysters and the quest for great oysters screamed Me, me, you won’t regret it!  We decide to get to the Damariscotta River Estuary that night, the home of the famous Wiley Point oyster (firm shell, large, light in texture, high salinity).

Immediately, we began to see the actuality of what we were doing. First off, the coast of Maine is long, a little over 200 miles as the crow flies, but about 3500 miles if you walk the tideline. Then it is dense, very dense in the south. And populated; and picturesque, except picturesque with powerlines every where. And urban – especially in the south – with, by and large, wall to wall houses on most of the shoreline. The best views were when we crossed bridges but those were the hardest places to stop; they were often narrow with no place to walk.
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The good thing about  all the urbanity was that we ran into an Enterprise Rent-a-car place pretty quickly and I was able to get authorized. Then I could drive and Michele could tell us where we actually were. We got to Kennebunk – The only place so named. the sign says – as the light got good. Then it was on to Kennebunkport, the home of the Bush Families Museum which we didn’t have time to take in, but we did stop at the local Heretic House.
1st Day-9637-2In the fading light, Michele took a couple of pictures of the local flock – probably Republicans – and I took some bridge and beach photos.
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1st Day-9641  1st Day-9644  1st Day-9660We made it to Wiley Cove – near Hog Island – in the dark.

 

El Paso and El Paso

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We saw The Councilor yesterday. It was, for me, incomprehensible much of the time, nihilistic, unrealistic, and gorgeous.

Not incomprehensible in that I didn’t know what was happening on the screen or who was doing what, but incomprehensible in that I didn’t know why. I finally gave up and decided that much of what happened was just there to look good. I could have lived with the incomprehensibleness, but the nihilism finally got me. The script was by Cormac McCarthy, so I should have expected the cynicism but I didn’t and it pretty much blindsided me.

Much of The Councilor – it is hard to tell how much, much of the time – supposedly takes place in and around El Paso Texas. I was stationed in El Paso and I recognized the landscape but it was different from any El Paso that I knew or, I am sure, even exists.

This movie El Paso is an El Paso where everybody calls a lawyer, Counselor, and the lawyer, a sometimes court appointed defense-council, drives a Bentley; this is an El Paso where the bad guy, played by Cameron Diaz, has pet cheetahs and lives in a staggeringly stunning house – and, by the way, has the most gorgeous, silver, fingernails I have ever seen on a human being and a cheetah pattern tattoo on her back and shoulder – this is an El Paso where people drive Ferraris and nobody seems to notice.

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The El Paso that I knew was a dry desert town where the military was a major employer and was so out-of-the-way that it bragged about being the headquarters of one Fortune 500 company. The El Paso I knew is the  in the excellent TV program The Bridge. The Bridge El Paso is a place where people drive two-year old SUVs and pickup trucks, where people would stop and gawk at a Ferrari.

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The irony here is that The Bridge is shot mostly in L.A. County – it is a landscape that Michele and I know as very Californian – but feels very El Paso-ish.

The second irony is that I walked out of The Councilor feeling assaulted, needlessly confused, and a little angry but I am still thinking about it the next day. Michele and I are still googling reviews and discussions. I wanted to see it because I like Ridley Scott as a director, I don’t always like his movies – although I usually do – but I always love the pictures he puts on the screen. In the end, the movie is alot like Cameron Diaz’s character, Malkina, unbelievable, breathtaking, and more memorable than she should be.

Still from The Counsellor, the new film from director Ridley Scott

The horrific things we do to each other

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I brought a biography of Clarence  Darrow – Attorney for the Damned – with me for the flight to Boston. I am not so sure that it was a great idea: I was still in Dayton, Tennessee – at the Monkey Trial – when the plane landed in Boston. And still in Tennessee on the bus ride to New Hampshire.

Darrow was in my family’s pantheon of civil heroes – or, at least, my dad’s pantheon, and by extension, mine – and I was enjoying reading about him in more detail than the stories that had been pretty much fixed in my DNA as a child. Darrow was a free-love-bohemian and I was a little taken back by how much free love and bohemianism there was back in the 1890s. He defended so many people that nobody else would touch, like Loeb and Leopold, the Western Federation of Miners who were in an industrial war with the Mine Owner’s Association in Idaho, or a black family that moved into a white neighborhood in Detroit.

The Mine Owner’s Association had the politicians backing them, and the police, and the Pinkerton’s who beat strikers to death under the banner of law and order. The miners struck back, bombing mines and buildings. The black family had everybody against them also, with the police protecting a crowd of whites who were trying to force the family out. It was a time of brutality and it was a time that resonates today, both financially and racially, although in a milder form.

A couple of years later, William Jennings Bryan ran for president as a populist hero against the powerful, the police that protected them, the Pinkertons, and even President Cleveland, of his own party, who sent Federal troops in to back the rich. Much of what Bryan said then is still germane now: There are two great theories of government. One claimed that if you would only legislate to make the well to do prosperous, their prosperity would leak through to those below. But the Democratic idea is if you legislate to make the masses prosperous, their prosperity would find its way up through every class that rests upon them.

The book was about the Darrow I had been taught, the defender of the powerless, but there was a Darrow I didn’t know. A Darrow who also defended people because he wanted money, people like a white bigot who brutally killed a Hawaiian and who Darrow knew was guilty. My dad was a defense lawyer for a while and he constantly pitched that a person is innocent until proven guilty. In the same manner as Darrow, my dad defended people like a bartender who killed his wife. Daddy knew he was guilty – even I knew he was guilty hearing the stories over the dinner table – but that didn’t seem to matter to Darrow or my dad. But sitting on the airplane,above it all, it mattered to me and left me in a melancholy funk.

I had brought a New Yorker book review of a couple of books about the partition of Pakistan into two countries, Pakistan and Bangladesh. I put down my Darrow book and read the book review to improve my mood. That was even worse. Nixon was a prick and while he and Kissinger congratulated themselves on their masculinity and pragmatism, the Pakistani generals, our allies, slaughtered hundreds of thousands of Bengalis who were – as Nixon said – just a bunch of brown goddamn Moslems.

I thought of Obama and our drones and how our government seems to find killing people OK as long as it suits our political needs and my melancholy grew. I went back to Darrow, and, fortunately, I was able to cheer myself up with the Monkey Trail, The State of Tennessee v. John Thomas Scopes, in Dayton, Tennessee, where the Courthouse had a banner that said Read your Bible.

Today, it is easy to laugh at Dayton and the trial but it was no laughing matter then and it still isn’t. Like the  Capital vs.Labor  fight, Ignorance vs. Science is a conflict that is still with us.

On the bus to New Hampshire, in Dayton, it was Darrow against Bryan and Darrow was at his best. You can close your eyes, Darrow said, But your life and my life and the life of every American citizen depends, after all, on tolerance and forbearance….If men are not tolerant, if men can not respect each other’s opinions, if men can not live and let live, then no man’s life is safe. If today you can take a thing, like evolution, and make it a crime to teach it in public schools….At the next session you can ban books and newspapers.

Soon you may set Catholic against Protestant, and Protestant against Protestant, and try to foist your own religion upon the minds of men. If you can do one, you can do another. Ignorance and fanaticism is ever busy and needs feeding…After awhile, Your Honor, it is the setting of man against man,  and creed against creed until – with flying banners and beating drums – we are marching backwards to the glorious age of the 16th century, where bigots lighted fagots to burn the men who dared to bring any intelligence and enlightenment and culture to the human mind.

Getting off the bus in New Hampshire, the sun was out and people were taking family pictures.

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Back home

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It is great to be home again and we can’t wait to go back. Flying back into Silicon Valley from Back East with – mostly – Maine calibrated eyes, is slightly surprising. Both Boston’s Logan Airport and San Jose’s Mineta Airport are nearly new but that is all that is the same. At Logan, it is hard to find a place to plug in a computer, at Mineta, every seat has a plug (except the chairs in the Meditation Room across from the gate).

Wandering around the Northeast – New England? Down East? – I missed my five o’clock cappuccino, in San Jose, we passed three espresso places between the gate and picking up our luggage. When we left Boston – near noon -it was in the low 50’s, at San Jose, it was in the low 70’s at 6:30.

The most pleasant surprise was the space, the vistas when we got off the plane. To a great extent this is because of our topography; there are mountains to have vistas of. Waiting for the shuttle, to the east was the Diablo Range, pale orange in the fading light, and to the west were the Santa Cruz Mountains, soft in the haze. In New Hampshire, we would drive for miles and see nothing but the next quarter-mile of road. A beautiful quarter-mile but no view until we crossed a bridge.

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The West is just plain opener than the East. Not just long vistas open, but it feels more open to change. I don’t think that Silicon Valley is a coincidence, I think that it is a result. The East is weighted down by the past – of course, if you are from the East, you might say grounded by the past and both are right – there are ghosts everywhere, waiting behind the present.
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On the way home, Michele and I were already making plans to go back. We were a little too late this year

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and the trip was way too short.

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Flying to Boston, where our country was born

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I am flying into Boston to meet Michele and we will fly out of Boston on Thursday the 31st, but we will probably not spend much time there. We are hoping to get as far away as Acadia National Park and then work our way back south. Maybe have a Chinese dinner in Boston on the 30th to celebrate out 20th Anniversary. What could be more American than that?