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Road with a view

I have been driving up to and down Highway 35 – better known as Skyline – my entire life. Well, at least as long as I haver been able to drive. While the State’s Highway 35 starts in San Francisco and runs down to Highway 17, along the spine of the San Francisco peninsula mountains,  between San Jose and Santa Cruz, my Skyline runs from Highway 92 between San Mateo and Half Moon Bay, to the Saratoga Gap. The first time I can remember going on this road was with my Grandfather when he took the machine out for a Sunday drive. Some of my most memorable drives were in my MG A, top down in the fog, wearing what was known at that time as a car coat.

As an aside, as an English car, a MG was designed to drive in fog, or cold damp conditions with the top down. The driver and pass anger could sort of snuggle deep down into the bowls, with the heater turned up to melt. An Italian car, like an Alfa Giulietta , was too open. Even with a heavy car coat. End aside.

A couple of days ago, on one of the clearest days we have had in awhile, I drove up to look at the view. After leaving 92 and driving up hill for a little bit , I looked back to see San Francisco in the distance, beyond Crystal Springs lakes, Highway 280, and the Bay. Looking the other way, I saw Highway 92 dropping towards Half Moon Bay.

My plan was to drive down 35 until I got to the old Skeggs Point View turnout and vista point to get some shots of the Peninsula below and the Bay beyond. When I got there, the view was gone.And – evidently – had been gone for a while.

So here is this great view that I remember all the way back to my childhood. It would appear that nobody has thought it worth while keeping the view spot clear enough to see much of anything below. I can understand that; the state is broke and, with what little money there is, I would rather feed homeless children or put it into schools. Except that somebody – I am going to guess the State Highway Department since this is a state highway – is spending money building a worthless new wall. Why not just trim back the bushes, shitcan the new wall and use the saved money on schools. What a shame.

Much of the road with a view, runs through oaks and, while it is pleasant, there is not much of a view.

Towards the end of the day, I came to Russian Ridge and went for a walk. The sun was getting soft and the haze was giving the hills a layered look that I love. here are some samples.

 

 

 

 

Steel Pass, Afghanistan, and the Marble Bath



One of the least traveled places in Death Valley National Park is between Steel Pass and Dedeckera Canyon. On a bigger scale, it is between Saline Valley and Eureka Dunes.  It is not an easy road, going up from Saline Valley includes long stretches of steep gravel streambed that require good, offroad, tires, four wheel drive, low gearing, and patience; going up from the Eureka Dunes side requires driving up a very narrow rock streambed and requires a spotter pointing out to the driver where to put the wheels. Both roads are doable, just not done very often.

Neither way is the hardest road in the National Park and I think that the reason more people don’t take the road is because it just takes too much time to get to the starting point.  Both the Saline Valley and the Eureka Dunes areas are at the ends of long , rough, roads. Both also are great end destinations in themselves being more intrinsically interesting than the road section between them. Most people don’t take the road because it just isn’t worth it.

I think that is the same problem with Afghanistan. It is about the most remote place in the world. To get there one has to either go through Iran, Pakistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, or Tajikistan. It doesn’t have an outlet to the sea, and once there, there is not much there. It doesn’t have oil, it doesn’t have lots of arable land, it doesn’t even have any lost cities of gold. It is not that it isn’t conquerable, but that it just isn’t worth the resources that it would take to conquer it. If we wanted to throw in the same resources we used to conquer Germany, I am sure we could, but Why would any country want to put forth that kind of effort?

Meanwhile, back at Steel Pass, there is a spot on the map called Marble Bath.  The old USGS 7.5 minute map – but, apparently, not the new maps – showed “Marble Bath” almost at Steel Pass on the side of the road. I had once tried to find the Marble Bath on the ground and couldn’t. As it turned out, so did Wendell Moyer, a research chemist, inventor, mountaineer, desert rat, and all around good guy who had looked for the Bath several times to no avail. Wendell thought it would be a public service to install a marble bath where it was shown on the map to relieve any future Marble Bath seekers the disappointment at not finding it.

At that time, a bill was moving through Congress that would annex the Saline and Eureka areas into Death Valley National Monument and then turn it all into a National Park. A National Park usually gives an area an higher level of protection. A lot of us thought that a higher level of protection might not be a good thing. We were afraid that the area was going to become too civilized.

Then, and now, the Saline Valley was known for its several nude hot springs and the fear was that the hot tubs would be closed or – at a minimum – become clothing mandatory; the side roads off the road between Steel Pass and  Dedeckera Canyon would be closed – they were closed, preemptively by the BLM– or even the Steel Pass road itself would be closed or, maybe, paved; the private holdings in Saline would be bought up; etc, etc. Very little of that happened.

In that atmosphere, Wendell Moyer thought up what I like to call the Marble Bath Gambol. He got a clawfoot tub, more than several boxes of marbles, and rounded up a couple of friends to install a real tub where the missing tub was shown on the map. Michele and I were included with Michele being the only woman. Among other duties, we were the official photographers and took numerous pictures of the installation including a couple of Michele taking a bath. Unfortunately, the pictures were film and are in storage. I hope.

Later, I heard that the tub had been removed by the Park Service. That turned out to be totally wrong! Not only is the tub still there, but it has gathered somewhat of a reputation as a required stop for the few travelers that pass by. People even added rubber duckies which, presumably, they brought with them for that purpose.

And now, even more amazingly, after the tub’s marbles had been depleted by souvenir takes, there has been a successful campaign to restore it to its former glory. If he were still with us, I think that Wendell would have been very pleased with the way the Marble Bath Gambol played out. Sadly, Wendell Moyer died just after climbing 22,000 foot Ojas del Salado in Chile in 1995. I believe it is the way he would have wanted to go.

Ferraris, Food, and Anthony Bourdain

Some interests – for lack of a better word – are so culturally loaded that they are compulsory. Men like cars; women like cooking.  Of course, in reality, that is not true.  I know lots of very masculine men don’t care much about cars and lots of very feminine women who don’t like cooking. But I know  alot fewer that will admit it – those that do are pretty brave souls. Luckily, tut there are status symbol surrogates that stand in for cars or cooking and people often use them as proof of their love. So somebody might say Oh! Of course I love cars, my favorite car is a BMW.

Many years ago, in 1980, I had the opportunity to go to Briggs Cunningham Automobile Museum in Costa Mesa. I was going alone but I was set up to meet a friend of a friend who owned a Ferrari, and was reputed to be a even bigger car buff than me. He was coming all the way from Ohio – as I remember –  to see the United States Grand Prix at Long Beach. Our mutual friend thought we would get along famously as I also owned a Ferrari – a 1964 Ferrari Lusso, like the one above; Lusso meaning luxury which was a strange name for a car that didn’t even have a radio or a glove compartment, or a lock on the passenger’s door which required the driver to get in the car first and then reach across the car and open the door for the passenger. Its saving grace – as if it needs a saving grace – is that it has a drop dead gorgous body by Pinin Farina and a three liter V12 engine designed by Gioacchino Colombo. It is very beautiful and very fast.

Any way, we met at the Briggs Cunningham Automobile Museum in Costa Mesa.  Neither of us had been to the Cunningham Museum before and were both very excited. The first car we saw when we walked into the museum, and one of its jewels, was an exquisite, very red, race car. My fellow museum goer was in awe of this fabulous Ferrari. But it wasn’t a Ferrari, it was a Maserati 300 S  like the one below; handmade by the Maserati brothers themselves – Bindo, Ernesto and Ettore.

When I pointed out that it wasn’t a Ferrari, he just looked at it, shrugged and walked on to the next car. Once he had realized it was not a Ferrari, he lost interest. It turned out that he was not a car buff, he was a Ferrari buff. There is a huge difference. Almost everybody who loves cars , loves Ferraris, but not the other way around. Ferraris have a reputation that transcends cars. They have a social and status overlay.

I love cars, any kind of cars, all kinds of cars, as long as they are interesting, well designed. Almost any Honda is good, Ford Pintos aren’t.  I thought the Cunningham Museum was great because it had lots of cars I had not seen before: along one wall were lined up Cunningham race cars, all painted in the traditional – for the time – United States race colors of white with blue stripes. BTW, Italy’s official color is red – duh! – Germany’s silver, and the England’s British Racing Green, known as BRG. My new friend thought it was a waste of time because it didn’t have many Ferraris,

This is all background to Michele and I discovering Anthony Bourdain and his program No Reservations a couple of weeks ago. I knew the name Anthony Bourdain and knew he had worked at or owned a high status restaurant but I didn’t know much else. I think that I have fallen in love with him.

Just like cars have Ferrari, cooking and food – and I believe they are linked – has a social, high status, overlay.  Two of them. Food’s Ferraris are both fancy kitchens and high-end restaurants. Lots of people that don’t especially like to cook have kitchens with granite counter tops and professional appliances and most people like going to a great, big name, restaurant. Of course, not everybody who goes there actually likes food or cooking.  Anthony Bourdain obviously does and No Reservations proves it . His program is usually witty, often irreverent, always interesting, and even, sometimes, like when he was in Laos, moving. But most importantly, he loves food. Any kind of food as long as it is good. Good being interesting.  He can wax almost as poetically about a good sandwich at a dive as a special meal at the French laundry. Here are a couple of examples.

Two very different movies and the suspension of disbelief

We saw Win Win last a couple of nights ago at an old fashioned movie house. The Guild, built in 1926. It only has one screen and, as the lights dimmed, the manager came down to the front to welcome us. She told us that if we had any problems, like the sound volume or the temperature, to come to the back and tell her. When the curtain opened – when was the last time you were at a movie theater that had a curtain? – they started running previews, not ads.

Befitting the theater, the movie was shot in old fashioned Technicolor film that made it look slightly homemade.  Paul Giamatti was the lead – I am hesitant to say star – and an excellent supporting cast most of whom I have seen before but I am not sure where. I thought it was a very enjoyable movie.

We saw Source Code at our local multiplex in downtown Redwood City. Both the movie and the theater could not have been more different. I am a big fan of this multiplex; I think that it has been a big factor in revitalizing downtown Redwood City. Revitalizing downtown Redwood City may be overstating it, but the downtown is much more lively than it used to be with lots of restaurants.

Anyway, Source Code has Jake Gyllenhaal who almost anybody would say is a star and Michelle Monaghan as a sort of random woman on a train. Vera Farmiga – show below in a gratuitous cheesecake shot to emphasis her non-militaryness – plays an Air Force captain at Nellis Air Force Base. The movie is shot in a hyper-sharp, probably digital, medium; much like the dream sequences in  Inception. I thought it was a very enjoyable movie.

The plot of Win Win revolved around a regular guy with a regular job and a regular family making the sleazy kind of bad decision regular people sometimes make. Source Code revolves  around the totally preposterous premise of putting somebody’s mind into a dead person’s body to relive – with modifications – the last eight minutes of their life which is still around in a sort of after image.

The thing is, when we walked out of Win Win, Michele said, That didn’t seem very realistic, it was just too much of a coincidence that Kyle was a wrestler. I felt the same way. But neither of us felt that way walking out of Source Code.  Because Win Win was so close to real reality, we hold it to a higher standard.  We hold Source Code to a Star Wars standard. All movies are unrealistic; they all include an arc of change and a transformation that most of us haven’t experienced in a lifetime. That’s why we go to the movies.



 

What a differance a year makes

Last year the Virgina celebrated Confederate History Month with a Proclamation that started out

WHEREAS, April is the month in which the people of Virginia joined the Confederate States of America in a four year war between the states for independence that concluded at Appomattox Courthouse;

and went on in the same vain. It really pissed me off and I posted on my complaint last year, so it is only fair that I post this year’s version. This year the proclamation is completely different, now it is Civil War History in Virginia Month. I like that much better. It says

….it was in April 1861 that Virginia seceded from the Union following a lengthy, contentious and protracted debate within the Commonwealth, and it was in April 1865 that the War was essentially concluded with the South’s surrender at Appomattox….

WHEREAS, the largest wartime population of African-American slaves was in Virginia, yet through their own acts of courage and resilience, as well as the actions of the United States army and federal government, they bequeathed to themselves and posterity a legacy of freedom; and

WHEREAS, slavery was an inhumane practice that deprived people of their God-given inalienable rights, and the Emancipation Proclamation and the Civil War ended its evil stain on American democracy and set Virginia and America on a still-traveled road to bring to fruition the great promises of the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution, and the Bill of Rights, and ensure that all Americans have the opportunity to enjoy equally the blessings of liberty and prosperity; and

WHEREAS, the military leadership and tactics of Virginians like Confederate Generals Robert E. Lee and Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson and Union General George Henry Thomas are still studied, analyzed and discussed today; the heroism of brave individuals like William Harvey Carney, who was born a slave in Norfolk, gained his freedom through the Underground Railroad, and received the Medal of Honor for his valor as a Union soldier at the battle of Fort Wagner, inspires us through the ages;

What a difference. The Proclamation has gone from a pro-confederate screed to honoring both the Virginian Confederate generals and the Union General George Thomas, the Rock of Chickamauga. More importantly, it honors both whites and blacks, and especially a Virginia slave who won the Medal of Honor.