Category Archives: Sierras

Six miles: the hard way

The good thing about the last hike, in Tuolumne Meadows, was that it was almost level. The usual Sierra hike involves a lot of elevation. To quote Ecological Subregions of California by the US Forest Service, "In west-east cross section, the Sierra is shaped like a trapdoor: the elevation gradually increases on the west slope, while the east slope forms a steep escarpment."  In other words, to get into the High Country fast, you have to start on the east side and walk up the "steep escarpment".

Once again, Richard remembered a trip from his distant past. Gibbs Lake.  In Lila, Robert Pirsig writes about how we see what we already believe. Which is why the birthers can look at Obama's Hawaiian birth certificate and see proof that he was born in Kenya, or some Republicans can read the new Healthcare Bill, see " NO FEDERAL PAYMENT FOR UNDOCUMENTED ALIENS Nothing in this subtitle shall allow Federal payments for affordability credits on behalf of individuals who are not lawfully present in the United States." and think it says "illegal aliens sign up for free healthcare here".

Anyway,as Richard remembered it, Gibbs Lake was a short hike and looking at the trailhead map seemed to confirm that. We began to entertain thoughts of going past Gibbs to Kidney Lake, a small lake, above Gibbs, in a cirque between Mount Gibbs and Mount Dana. The guide (for snowshoeing trails!) said that it was a hard hike….but that seemed to be from Hyway 395 – which was as high as anybody could be expected to get in the winter – and we were driving to the summer trailhead which cut out most of the hike. You know where this is going: It turns out that Gibbs Lake is three hard miles and 1600 feet from the trailhead.

To make matters worse, most of the trail is right up the "steep escarpment". Even the parking lot at the trailhead is steep, and then it just starts uphill with no switchbacks. I think this is the steepest trail I have ever been on with out even one switchback. After about a mile, and somewhere in the neighborhood of a 800 vertical feet, the trail became more normal, paralleling a bubbling stream.

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We continued up, up, and more up. Gradually, now, but still up and up. By now, Richard was way ahead, it was getting cloudy and colder,  and I was starting to think of a good reason to quit. My mantra became "I may be slow, but I alway get there."  Finally, everything started to level out. Most of the lakes like Gibbs are in cirques caused by glaciers so, below them, is an end or terminal moraine.  The leveling out should mean that we are getting into the cirque and the lake is getting close. After a short, sort of flat,  walk through the woods,

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there was the lake. With Richard waiting. And a light rain starting.

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After a typical trail lunch of hunks of cheese and salami, we started back down. It still seemed long, but much easier.

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The Junipers were in full fruit and "smelled of unadulterated Gin".

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Actually, they didn't smell at all, but I have always been taken by that line after reading it it Basin and Range by John McPhee.  As we got to the steep part, steep down now, the clouds got thicker and blocked out the view of Mono Lake. 

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It was getting colder and windier as we ended the hike, glad we were down and not camped 1600 feet higher at the lake.

But, back at home, Gibbs is the lake I would like to go back to – hummm, if we went for two nights, the three mile hike in would be fairly easy and we could hike up to Kidney Lake during the middle day. Piece of cake!

The Mobil Station

I think that because I was born in California and grew up here, I am used to driving around California and the west rather than flying. It seems much more reasonable to me to just drive to LA, for example, than to fly there and then rent a car (getting around by Public Transportation or Taxi would be inconceivable). The downside is that, once one leaves the Bay Area and until one gets to the next real urban area (that would probably be Chicago – going east), there are no interesting, fast, places to eat.

Finding an interesting place to eat in the American Outback is almost impossible. The choice is between stopping at a known fast food place like Carl's Jr. or an unknown authentic local place like the Jerk Water Cafe. There are a few exceptions: Doe's Eat Place in Greenville, Mississippi, was a lucky find, or the long gone Nut Tree in Vacaville, and ….The Mobile Station on Hyway 395.

The Mobile Station is slightly uphill from where Highway 120 hits Highway 395 on the eastern side of Yosemite's Tioga Pass and it overlooks Mono Lake,

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otherwise, it looks just like any other gas station in the boondocks,

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selling – maybe – slightly better junk than most gas stations.

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But, inside is the Whoe Nellie Deli

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which is a very fun cafe (CafĂ© – really) serving such things as actual Espressos and Smoked Trout on a Bagel; as well as the usual bacon and eggs for breakfast. For lunch or dinner, there are – among lots of other choices – Fish Tacos, or a Chicken Caesar Salad Wrap,  or Wild Buffalo Meatloaf, or Lobster Taquitos, or St. Louis Style Ribs. And all of it is good.

It is well worth going out of your way (but probably not worth the five hour drive from Reno or San Francisco, or the seven hour drive from Los Angeles).

Meanwhile, back on the Home Front…

Steve and Michele (with Beth and Howard) went over the hill to the Eastern Sierra along Highway 395*. The plan was to drive as high as we could and spend a couple of days hiking. The first day, after taking a day hike at the top of Sonora Pass, we got to a very small lake, on the east side, at about 10,000 feet,

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overlooking Bridgeport and Mono Lake.

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We spent the night there (some sleeping better and longer than others),

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and, the next day, went for a short hike above the lake,

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before moving on to another lake.

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The next day, we hiked up into the John Muir Wilderness.

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The first night had been windy, but, the last couple of days were perfect weather. Warm in the day and cold at night, with a glorious, still, morning the day we left.

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*the Sierra Nevada Range  runs along the eastern side of California's Great Central Valley – the largest flat area in north America. The Range sloops gradually up to the east until it crests at the ridgeline. In the southern Sierra, the passes vary from 8,000 to 12,000 feet and the mountains go to 14,000. From the crestline, the Sierra drop down to Highway 395, forming the highest, steepest escarpment in the world. Starting at 395, is the fastest way to get into the highcountry.**

**above timberline.