Yesterday, we went to a Louise Bourgeois show at the Mori Art Museum. The Mori is on the 53rd floor of the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, a 54-floor building on a hilltop. One floor below the museum, which has only one window, is a gallery wrapping around the building that is all windows and views.
To be continued..
I love Tokyo. If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it. Anthony Bourdain
Toyko is the perfect mix between tradition and modern culture. Kazuo Ishiguro
Here in Tokyo, they’re not just hard-working but almost violently cheerful. Down at the Peacock, the change flows like tap water. The women behind the registers bow to you, and I don’t mean that they lower their heads a little, the way you might if passing someone on the street. These cashiers press their hands together and bend from the waist. Then they say what sounds to me like, “We, the people of this store, worship you as we might a god.” David Sedaris
We left San Francisco at about noon Sunday. We flew for almost twelve hours above the clouds in daylight to land at Narita International Airport slightly before four o’clock Monday afternoon. An hour and ten minutes later, by express train, we were in Tokyo. By the time we got to our hotel, it was dark, and we were beat. We stumbled about six blocks to a small restaurant whose name I don’t remember and had a couple of very nice snacks, like oysters on Mapo vermicelli and fried chicken with lots of green onions. Then we stumbled back to our hotel and crashed.
The 29th started cloudy and ended rainy, with a forecast of one to two inches of rain. We are in the spin-off of Tropical Cyclone Kristine, which is plowing through the Philippines. We spent most of the day inside, much of it looking for a replacement lens shade that I somehow lost. The first place that we went was a six-story super Fry’s that had everything camera related but lens shades. We finally found one in another camera store several subway stops away.
If all this sounds dismal, it would be except that the food is so good and the people are so delightful. Michele thought it would be more convenient if she reserved a wheelchair for me when we landed at Narita, and the only reason I could think of was to say, “No.” was to save my pride. I was wheeled through the airport and around gates by two women and one man. All three were adorable, and they acted like I was doing them a big favor.
Tokyo is huge. California, the most populous state in the US, has a population of 39,128,162; Tokyo has a population of 37,115,035. Here is a subway map to give you an idea of its size.
But the kicker is that the city works so well. It is clean, really clean, safe, and friendly. It may be my favorite city after only two days. Here are some pictures; more later.
We are going to Japan on the 27th of this month.
“Having seen the hosts before, I remember I would look on and think, ‘It would be cool one day to be a host.’ Anna’s been so gracious as to include me within that group.” Lewis Hamilton
People cut themselves off from their ties of the Old Life when they come to Los Angeles. They are looking for a place where they can be free, where they can do things they couldn’t do anywhere else. Los Angeles Mayor Tom Bradley.
Tip the world over on its side and everything loose will land in Los Angeles. Frank Lloyd Wright
Like earlier generations of English intellectuals who taught themselves Italian in order to read Dante in the original, I learned to drive in order to read Los Angeles in the original. Reyner Banham
I would describe Los Angeles as actually not having taste. In New York, there’s taste. But you have to remember that taste is censorship. It’s a form of restriction. James Turrell
In past posts, I’ve written about Lewis Hamilton winning races, moving to Ferrari, and as a black role model. I’ve even written about Lewis and random numbers, and I’ve written about Lewis at The Met Gala, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute’s annual fundraising event, so there is not much left.
Ah, but there is. This year, Sir Lewis Hamilton was made one of the co-hosts of the 2025 Met Gala. The theme is “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” The Gala costs $75,000 a pop – it started in 1948 with tickets at $75 – and it is generally considered the hottest fashion event of the year. I think Hamilton has been going for about ten years. An interesting side note is that Donald Trump is the only person who has been publicly banned from The Gala by the chief honcho, Anna Wintour.
A couple of months ago, Peter and Ophelia were talking about their trip to Mexico. Peter mentioned that Mexico City was his favorite city in the world. I was shocked; the concept of favorite city had never occurred to me. I have a favorite athlete, Lewis Hamilton*; a favorite place, Southeastern Utah, especially Coyote Gulch in the Escalante River basin**; and even a favorite car, the Birdcage Maserati – or Tipo 61 – the last great front-engine racecar, but a favorite city had never occurred to me.
But now that I knew the concept of favorite city, I started thinking about what mine would be. As a disclaimer, when I say favorite city, what I really mean is favorite city to visit. It seems to me that it should be something cool like New York, Paris, Florence, or maybe even Shanghai, well, the French Quarter in Shanghai, anyway. But none of those cities work, maybe because I haven’t spent enough time in them, maybe because they are filled with furriners. I don’t know why, but I kept coming back to Los Angeles; how uncool is that?
But I don’t want to give the impression that Los Angeles is my favorite city by default; it isn’t. It is my favorite city because I love visiting it. The same goes for Coyote Gultch; when I told Michele that we should consider moving to Escalante, all she said was, “Why don’t you check the weather there for a year.” I did, and after about three months, I decided moving there was a bad idea. I don’t want to live in Los Angeles; I just want to visit it…often.
I love the chaos of Los Angeles – and, by Los Angeles, I mean the greater Los Angeles area, including places like Manhattan Beach and Glendale and even Pomona – the anything-goes attitude. I love the sprawling size and the diversity. I love the car culture, and I love that I can get an excellent Chinese snack at midnight after a Stravinsky concert. And, I should add, it is not a generic Chinese snack but a spicy pork snack in a Schezwan restaurant, and the concert is in a building designed by hometown architect Frank Gehry with superb acoustics. Rather than rambling on, I just post some pictures to show my point.
*duh, **duh, again
The spirits that I summoned, I now cannot rid myself of again. Johann Wolfgang von Goeth in The Sorcerer’s Apprentice, as quoted by Yuval Noel Harari in Nexus.
The dog barking at you from behind his master’s fence acts for a motive indistinguishable from that of his master when the fence was built; essentially, they both see the area as their territory and are protecting it, even if the dog doesn’t fully understand the concept of ownership like the human does. Robert Ardrey in The Territorial Imperative: A Personal Inquiry Into the Animal Origins of Property and Nations (1966)
A place belongs forever to whoever claims it hardest, remembers it most obsessively, wrenches it from itself, shapes it, renders it, loves it so radically that he remakes it in his image. Joan Didion in The White Album (1979)
Michele and I watched the VP debate last Wednesday. I know the debate was on Tuesday, but we had long-standing plans to see Yuval Noel Harari. I’m a big fan of Harari, though, to be accurate, I should really say that I am a big fan of Sapiens, Harari’s first book (I did not get through his second book).
Harari has a new book out, as do many of the other speakers in the same series of talks, and I think that is largely the reason for his being on the speaker tour. The book is Nexus, subtitled A Brief History of Information Networks from the Stone Age to AI, and, from his talk, the book sounds interesting, if not very optimistic. One thing that Harari said that was both interesting and frightening is that Israel is using AI to pick targets in their wholesale killing of the indigenous Palestinians (I keep reading that it is called the Israeli-Palestinian War, but with the overwhelming superiority of the Israeli weapons, and an estimated death toll of about 1,706 Israelis to 41,431 Palestinians this fight can not be called a war). Harari pointed out that humans still pull the trigger, but only after AI tells them where to shoot. He did not say it like it was a good thing.
Watching the debate the next day, after reading the reviews, so to speak, was more like doing homework than “Oh boy! Let’s watch the debate”. Vance was very polished and has the ability to make some of his and Trump’s crazy ideas seem almost normal. It seems obvious to me that Vance has done a lot of debating. I kept thinking, Hum, I guess the elite schools are better; Yale, Vance’s alma mater, is better, at least in preparing people for debates, than Chadron State College, Walz’s alma mater.
The first question was something like, “Governor Walz, if it was up to you, would you support or discourage an Israeli preemptive strike on Iran?” Walz didn’t answer the question, saying instead that Hamas attacked first and that Israel has the right to defend itself, and Vice President Harris will provide steady leadership. I understand the Harris/Walz Campaign’s problem here; the Jewish population is a big demographic and a bigger donor pool. On the other side, Michigan and Minnesota, which are both swing states and could go either way, have a lot of Muslim voters, which the party does not want to lose.
Next, one of the moderators asked Vance the same question. The Republicans have a different problem; they lost most of the Muslim vote after President George W. Bush senselessly attacked Iraq (before Bush’s attack, a plurality of Muslims, who are pretty socially conservative, voted Republican). Vance, who is new to the national scene but already disliked for some of his past comments like, “Cat ladies are unhappy and trying to make everybody else miserable.”, said, “I want to answer your question, but, first, let me tell you about myself.” He came across as a nice, reasonable guy. At the very end, he said something to the effect that Israel can do whatever they want. I started to worry that this would be a bad day for the Democrats. Still, as the debate went on, Vance seemed to misrepresent various Republican and Democratic positions and, in the end, refused even to admit that Trump lost the 2020 election, leaving me feeling better.
In the background, the threat of war in the Middle East is ramping up, and Israel is increasingly seen as the bad guy, which, in my opinion, it is. That’s not good. Not good for Israel or for Jewish people around the world who are mistakenly tarred with the same brush as Israelis. I say mistakenly because Jewish people who were born and live outside Israel and Israelis are not interchangeable, and many Jewish people, especially younger Jewish people who consider Israel the dominant power in the region, think the Israeli government is in the wrong.
I’ve been interested in human evolution for a long time, probably since 1966, when I first read The Territorial Imperative: A Personal Inquiry Into the Animal Origins of Property and Nations by Robert Ardrey. Robert Ardrey was not a scientist; he was a playwright and a screenwriter who was also interested in human evolution and became a science writer. He was a very controversial science writer in 1966, but most of what was then controversial, like humans evolved in Africa and not Asia, is now considered obvious. Ardrey also wrote that we evolved from animals and were still, in large part, run by our animal roots when the prevailing wisdom was that animals acted out of instinct, and we were different because we acted through our power of reasoning (which, of course, animals didn’t have).
Ardrey postulated that one of the instincts that we are controlled by is our animal instinct to acquire land and defend territory. He further postulated that the Nazis were able to round up and slaughter the Jews because they did not have any territory to defend, and if they did own territory, they would have fought back.
Now, both Israelis and Palestinians think that the land between the Dead Sea and the Mediterranean is theirs, exclusively theirs, and both are willing to fight to the death to keep it. I think that it is a problem without a solution. One of my many doctors is an Israeli who moved here from Israel because she did not want to raise her children in a country that treated the Palestinians so cruelly. Off and on, when I have an appointment with her, we end up talking about Israel and Palestine, although neither one of us has a solution.
On one of those visits, I suggested that the only solution was for the Israeli people and the Palestinian people to learn to live together in a single state. She snapped back, “No way, we would never let that happen.” It was the most animated I’ve ever seen her. Much more animated than either Vance or Walz in the aforementioned Vice Presidential Debate.
That debate was, for the most part, a civil, lowkey affair. I don’t mean that as a compliment. It would be a compliment if Senator Vance or Governor Walz actually debated their different takes on the issues, but they didn’t. Both debaters were excellent at not answering the questions, although Walz did it better. I think Vance hurt himself when he started, several times, with, “I don’t want to talk about the past, I want to talk about the future.” Maybe, in the end, that is the good thing about AI. I read that different AI programs make up answers – called hallucinating in the trade – but they haven’t yet learned to equivocate.