All posts by Steve Stern

The Mobil Station

I think that because I was born in California and grew up here, I am used to driving around California and the west rather than flying. It seems much more reasonable to me to just drive to LA, for example, than to fly there and then rent a car (getting around by Public Transportation or Taxi would be inconceivable). The downside is that, once one leaves the Bay Area and until one gets to the next real urban area (that would probably be Chicago – going east), there are no interesting, fast, places to eat.

Finding an interesting place to eat in the American Outback is almost impossible. The choice is between stopping at a known fast food place like Carl's Jr. or an unknown authentic local place like the Jerk Water Cafe. There are a few exceptions: Doe's Eat Place in Greenville, Mississippi, was a lucky find, or the long gone Nut Tree in Vacaville, and ….The Mobile Station on Hyway 395.

The Mobile Station is slightly uphill from where Highway 120 hits Highway 395 on the eastern side of Yosemite's Tioga Pass and it overlooks Mono Lake,

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otherwise, it looks just like any other gas station in the boondocks,

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selling – maybe – slightly better junk than most gas stations.

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But, inside is the Whoe Nellie Deli

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which is a very fun cafe (Café – really) serving such things as actual Espressos and Smoked Trout on a Bagel; as well as the usual bacon and eggs for breakfast. For lunch or dinner, there are – among lots of other choices – Fish Tacos, or a Chicken Caesar Salad Wrap,  or Wild Buffalo Meatloaf, or Lobster Taquitos, or St. Louis Style Ribs. And all of it is good.

It is well worth going out of your way (but probably not worth the five hour drive from Reno or San Francisco, or the seven hour drive from Los Angeles).

Meanwhile, back on the Home Front…

Steve and Michele (with Beth and Howard) went over the hill to the Eastern Sierra along Highway 395*. The plan was to drive as high as we could and spend a couple of days hiking. The first day, after taking a day hike at the top of Sonora Pass, we got to a very small lake, on the east side, at about 10,000 feet,

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overlooking Bridgeport and Mono Lake.

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We spent the night there (some sleeping better and longer than others),

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and, the next day, went for a short hike above the lake,

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before moving on to another lake.

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The next day, we hiked up into the John Muir Wilderness.

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The first night had been windy, but, the last couple of days were perfect weather. Warm in the day and cold at night, with a glorious, still, morning the day we left.

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*the Sierra Nevada Range  runs along the eastern side of California's Great Central Valley – the largest flat area in north America. The Range sloops gradually up to the east until it crests at the ridgeline. In the southern Sierra, the passes vary from 8,000 to 12,000 feet and the mountains go to 14,000. From the crestline, the Sierra drop down to Highway 395, forming the highest, steepest escarpment in the world. Starting at 395, is the fastest way to get into the highcountry.**

**above timberline.   

Italy Days 6-10 – Where Have We Been?

That is the question our vast following here on the web must have been asking.  Alas, we were unexpectedly stranded without internet access.  And it often seemed so close!  While our hotel in Venice had internet access, we have an older computer that could not connect with their system.  They even had an older system but our computer did not have a strong enough wifi receiver to make it work.  Ahh, the challenges of travelling in the internet age!

Since our last post we've been to Venice, returned to Florence, seen Tracy off to her workshop on the Spiritual and Art Practice, and Richard off to Pisa where he writes this on the hotel PC (with its European keyboard) shortly before heading back to SF.  Much ground to cover and little time.  In short:

Venice is wonderful, marvelous, amazing, and many other over the top positive adjectives.

Light, color, sky, architecture, art, and history are some of the dimensions of the above.

We got to spend an afternoon and evening with the Grubbs-Rider clan!

St.Marks is a wonder of the world.

The Biennale was so wonderful Richard dropped all plans to sightsee and spent all day for for two days at the show.  The exhibition spaces alone were incredible and much of the art just amazing.

On the day we left we saw a separate exhibit, Infinitum, that knocked our socks off.

Food highlights were our first italian pizza, lemon-basil gelato, and a seafood-green bean salad.

Technology caused Richard a small heart murmur when the GPS on his iPhone told him his train was headed to Rome instead of Pisa – fortunately it corrected itself before more serious health consequences ensued.

Pisa has a botanical garden that allows you to photograph the leaning tower emerging from jungle vegetation much like a Mayan temple at Tikal.

There you have it!  There may be some more reflective posts after a few days.  We shall see. 

Thanks for reading!

Italy Day 5 – To Market to Market

Day 5 post     Today we broke out of the museum pattern and spent the day
wandering around town.  Our initial
destination was the produce (and meat, and fish, and grappa) market at San
Lorenzo.  It is a massive hall that
dwarfs the SF Ferry Plaza.  It is
always a wonderful thing to look at fresh produce and is even better when it’s a
just a bit different as it is here. 
Everything was gorgeous!  In
one shop we spoke to a very helpful young Florentine who hails originally from
Oregon.  She is in school here and
says the job market is way better than Oregon.  We made or way home zigzagging through town succeeding in
keeping most of our shopping to the window- variety.  We had a bit of rain today which blessedly dropped the temp
below 90.  It made walking about so
much more pleasant (there may be a short essay on the heat in a later post).

Dinner tonight was again wonderful.  Nice simple bruscheta with the ripest
melt in your mouth tomatoes you can imagine, an anchovy salad, and a slow
braised beef with peppercorns and various secret ingredients.   We’ve been asked if the meals are
expensive and the answer is yes, but only because everything in Florence is
expensive!  The prices we’ve paid
have been reasonable by Florence standards.  We’ve found most places through our guidebook and we’ve
limited ourselves to places that are a 1 or 2 on their 4 point scale.

 

Tomorrow we are off to Venice where we hear things are even
more expensive than Florence – we shall see!

Italy Day 4 – David (Pretty Big for a Little Guy)

Our reservations for David were even earlier than for the
Ufizzi so we already had a bigger challenge compounded by having had even more
wine (a very big Sicilian albo de vevera) than the night before.
  Still we made it in plenty of
time.
  The David matched the
build-up of the hype.
  I found
myself just gazing first at a foot, then a hand, then a muscle on the leg, a
vein on the arm, all perfect.
  The
museum has a show of Mapplethprpe’s work going on right now that provides an
exquisite match helping the viewer to become immersed in form and the artists’
fascination with form.
  I’ve always
enjoyed M’s work but seeing it the context of David and other sculptures at the
Accademia took it to a new level.
 
The rest of the day we spent wandering town, napping, washing clothes,
and catching up on the blog.
 
Spending time in our room I was reminded of Florence’s textile heritage
– I love our drapes!

Day 4 photo

 Dinner was a simple affair just down the
street.
  Though I’ve never ordered
steak and eggs at home, seeing them offered with asparagus and truffles was
irresistible and it was 
a tasty affair indeed!