All posts by Steve Stern

Highway 20 from Mono Lake to Tioga Pass

I love the eastern Sierras – the escarpment along the 395 Highway corridor – they are so dramatic. The eleven or twelve mile drive from Mono Lake to Tioga Pass is the most extreme contrast I have ever seen. It goes from here (both double clickable to enlarge)

Mono Lake -9446

to here

Mono Lake -9478

in twenty minutes.

At the bottom is Mono Lake which is really not a lake, but a small, very salty sea, a basin with no outlet. Even at that, Mono is a strange place. For years, I drove by it at top speed on my way to more scenic places. I think that most people drove by it and the City of Los Angeles had siphoned off all the creeks running into it; so the Lake was slowly drying up. In 1978 or so, one guy*, David Gaines, changed this little part of the world.

Shocked and appalled by what he saw, Gaines formed the Mono Lake Committee and started talking to everybody – the conservation
community, politicians, schools, service organizations, anybody he could corner – about the wonder of this forgotten lake/sea. Now there is a big Visitor Center overlooking the lake; the small town of Lee Vining – also overlooking the lake – is full of tourists, many of them from Europe; and Los Angeles is no longer sucking the lake dry. 

From the bottom, looking up, the Sierras don’t look very impressive.



Mono Lake -9448

At the bottom of the road, Forestry Service fire engines are waiting for directions.


Fire engines-9454

But, then, the road just starts up,


Road up-9458 

Past a pine level, and past rock outcroppings where the seeps run all summer long and the hanging flowers always seem to be blooming.


Road up-9464

Running into and then along a glaciated valley to the East gate to Yosemite National Park – where, now, there is always a line – at the gate, that is.

It used to be there was no line – because all the receipts from the gate were turned over to Washington to put in the General Fund – now Yosemite gets to keep most of the receipts and the National Park service the rest. Now, the rangers religiously man the gates.
Road up-9470


Road up-9472 

 

 


A walk to the Sierra Nevada crest

In less than two weeks, to celebrate my 70th birthday, several of us are going to make a trans-Sierra hike from the east side of the Sierra to the west side. We plan on starting at Mosquito Flat at approximately  10,100 elevation, hiking over Mono Pass at 12,000 feet and then following Mono Creek down to Lake Thomas A. Edison at 7,300 feet.

The first part of the trip, from Mosquito Flat to Mono Pass is short but steep: 1900 feet in about four miles and I was a little worried that I couldn't make it. Four miles is not a big deal and 1900 feet isn't either but 12,000 feet is sort of a bitch. At 12,000 feet, airpressure is only about 40% of sea level. The sky is even darker because there is that much less air between us and space.

So, while Michele was in Canada, I decided to take a trial, trail, hike. Like every hike, it starts in a parking lot – usually crowded.

Mosquito Flat (1 of 1)

I think of 10,500 feet as being about timberline in the Sierras and, at 10,100 feet, the trees at Mosquito Flat are already stunted. The trail started wide and relatively flat and soon narrowed and got steeper. Late July is spring at 10,000 feet and the trail was surrounded with wildflowers.

Mono Pass Trail (1 of 1)
Hard to see, in photographs, wildflowers, true, but bright wildflowers everywhere. The trail soon climbed above timberline to a more alpine environment.

Mono Pass Trail (1 of 1)-2
Mono Pass Trail (1 of 1)-3

One of the things I love about hiking above timberline in the Sierras is that it is like hiking in a Japanese Zen garden – I know, I know, Japanese Zen gardens are copied from the above timberline landscape in the Japanese Alps (are they still called the Japanese Alps?) – but, still…,

 

Mono Pass Trail-9422
Mono Pass Trail-9417

At about the half way point, the trail got drastically steeper, switchbacking up the side of the mountain, leading to the pass.

Mono Pass Trail-9414
Mono Pass Trail-9410
Until, way below, was Ruby Lake at 11,000. 

Mono Pass Trail-9404
About this time, I was beginning to think I was not going to make it. Then the trail leveled out and makes a gradual turn to the right leading to the pass. All of a sudden, the end was in sight, so – revitalized – I headed for the pass.

Mono Pass Trail-9399
Except that it turned out not to be the pass. Once I got to the fake pass, there was another one just a couple of hundred yards ahead, and then another, and – shit – another.

Mono Pass Trail-9397
Then it flattened out, and – with very little fanfare – tilted down into the Pacific drainage.

Mono Pass Trail-9391

The crest of the Sierras. At least, on this trail, the crest of the Sierras. 

Life without a computer

My computer crashed – every time I start it up, it slowly goes through all the steps of starting, and then…just turns itself off – and Michele – my tech-support – was in Canada so I was left with pretty much doing the same wrong thing over and over again. My plan was to drive over the Sierras to the East Side and do some hiking while Michele was gone, so I thought – which is the act of thinking, so it is definitely not the right word: no actual thinking was going on – I would take a couple of days off and, maybe, when I got back the computer would work. Like it was a sick dog that just needed a little rest.

I get most of my news off of the computer and, of course, use it to process my photos. I stay in touch with email and write this blog – which is a bigger part of my life than it should be – on my computer. All my phone numbers and addresses are on the computer – my calendar, my checking account. Everything! And it was all gone. Twenty five years ago, I'm not sure I would have cared if my computer went down, now it is as important as a car.