Category Archives: Death Valley

Petrichor….pe-trahy-kawr

Several days ago, I got out of the shower and was drying myself only to realize that Precious Mae’s litter box hadn’t been cleaned recently. I got a bag and cleaned the litterbox, mentally thinking about how distasteful cleaning cat shit and pee out of the litter box is. In my imagination, at least, cleaning the litter box, running the little-slotted shovel through the pile of litter, stirs up a cloud of contaminated dust that settles on everything, especially my slightly damp bare skin. So I got back in the shower to rinse off. The millisecond  I got in, I was flooded with the familiar smell of summer camp. I could see that the shower was wet, I could feel the wet walls and door, but neither of those senses transported to another place and another time like that familiar smell.

Two other familiar smells that I associate with places are the distinctive smell of the Eastern Sierras, especially in the summer and fall, and rain in the desert. But it’s not just rain, as I found out about thirty years ago. A friend and I had gone to Dante’s View to look at the stars, Dante’s View is at an elevation 5,476 feet and in those days there was not much light pollution from Las Vegas so the view of the sky from Dante’s View, on a moonless night, was stellar (sorry). 

As an aside, this was over the Easter Break and we were awakened about 4:30 by a Geology Class from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, driving up in about five cars. At first, a bunch of cars driving up in the dark was a little disconcerting because we were sleeping on the ground, right next to the parking lot – which, in those days, was above the current parking lot, on top of the ridge – but we soon learned that they had come to watch the sunrise and get a lecture on the forming of Death Valley. All we had to do was sit up in our sleeping bags to attend the class. It was the only time I listened to a lecture in my sleeping bag. End aside.  

After the lecture, we drove down to Furnace Creek – which is at sea level – and, as we dropped down in elevation, it got hotter. It had been a cold night so we rolled the windows down and opened the sunroof,  soaking in the heat and the view at about 20 miles per hour. We had just turned off of the Furnace Creek Wash Road onto Highway 190, it was probably in the high 80s and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky when we smelled rain. The smell was so strong and so distinctive that we were both shocked. I slowed down and, for a moment, I thought I had popped a radiator hose, but it wasn’t that rubbery smell, it was the distinctive smell of rain in the desert as unlikely as that seemed. Then we turned a corner and there, in front of us, was a huge water truck slowly waddling down Highway 190, water splashing out of the open hatch on top and dribbling down onto the dusty road where it evaporated almost immediately, leaving only that distinctive smell. 

A couple of days ago, I found out that the smell is so distinctive that it even has a name,  petrichor which is defined by Google’s dictionary as a distinctive scent, pleasant or sweet, produced by rainfall on very dry ground. According to Wikipedia,  The term was coined in 1964 by…Isabel Bear and Richard Thomas, for an article in the journal Nature. In the article, the authors describe how the smell derives from an oil exuded by certain plants during dry periods, whereupon it is absorbed by clay-based soils and rocks. During rain, the oil is released into the air along with another compound, geosmin, a metabolic by-product of certain actinobacteria, which is emitted by wet soil, producing the distinctive scent.

The same Wikipedia entry went on to say that the oil retards seed germination and early plant growth. I knew that creosote bushes – Larrea tridentata, if you care – drip poison to stop other plants from growing nearby but I thought it was the only one. Life in the desert is harsh, water is scarce, and it turns out that lots of desert plants do the same thing giving us that familiar and pleasant smell; petrichor. 

Death Valley Easter Trip 2013: some other Views

Sierras-JR on the Eureka Dunes by Coco Gonzo

Last Saturday, Michele and I joined JR at Gina and Courtney’s house for a spectacular dinner followed by their slide show of our Death Valley Easter Trip. Actually, I should say slides shows because we also saw JR’s shots and Michele’s pictures. The slide shows were about an hundred times more fun than it sounds.

First off everybody’s trip was slightly different, meaning that everybody’s point of view was both literally and figuratively different. I wasn’t where Courtney was to see the shot of JR and, if I had been, I might have been looking somewhere else. I know I was looking somewhere else when Gina was demonstrating how windy it was at the edge of Ubehebe Crater.

Sierras-Gina leaning into the wind by Coco Gonzo

Second, nobody got much in the way of shots of themselves, I didn’t, and it was fun to see pictures of myself (some of them, some were pretty horrifying at how fat I have become).

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Sierras-2145Replacing the top radiator hose by JR

Sierras-1050053Steve leaving Red Wall canyon by JR 

While I was fretting over the waning light  as we crossed over the last Chance Range on our way to camp in North death Valley Wash, JR was looking at the great view down onto Crankshaft Junction.

Sierras-2211Looking down at Crankshaft Junction from a pass in the Last Chance Range by JR

He got higher than anybody on the Eureka Dunes and caught the sinuous road leading down to the dunes from the North Death Valley Road.

Sierras-2187From the highest ridge at Eureka Dunes by JR 

And, on his early morning walks,  JR saw and photoed every sunrise and even photoed himself seeing the sunrise.

Sierras-2353JR from Lake Hill, Upper Panamint Valley by JR  

Lastly, this was a special trip and it was fun to re-live it through the eyes of other people who were on the trip.

 

 

 

Death Valley Easter Trip 2013: Going Home

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After coming down from Red Wall, we drove to Stove pipe Wells to pick up a couple of beers and then over Towne Pass – 4950, or so, feet – to the Panamint Valley and up the Lake Hill Road to camp in the dark. I’m only calling it Lake Hill Road because that is what the Park Offroad map calls it, but Michele and I used to call it the North Panamint Road and, for awhile, I favored the War Eagle Mine Road after the mine at the end. Anyway, it is an easy road to drive in a car, even in the dark, and offers lots of flat – if somewhat exposed – places to camp, so setting up in the dark is close to effortless. Our last dinner out was a crisp celery salad by Michele and Gina and hearty lentil stew by Courtney and JR (seen here heating the water before starting) .

Panamint Camp dinner-9726I woke up the next morning about the same time as JR (6 AM, or so). JR went for a hike up Lake Hill for his morning constitutional and I sort of meanderingly packed the cars while Michele, Gina, and Courtney slept in.

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We were on the road early, waiting until we got to Lone Pine – in the shadow of the Sierras, or what would have been the shadow except that it was morning and the Sierras were to our west – for breakfast.

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Then we started north, driving along the Sierra Nevadas. Since we left Minden, Nevada, the elephant in the car – if that is possible with a car full of liberals – has been my poor, abandoned, Range Rover. When ever we had a cell phone signal – which was rarely – I tried calling the garage where it had been towed but all I got was an answering machine. Now that we were back in civilization, I was able to get through.

The poor baby was at Hollar’s Automotive And 4 Wheel Drive and Mr. Hollar said that he did not have good news. He had run a block test to see if I had exhaust gases leaking into the cooling system, which would indicate a blown head gasket, and the poor Rover failed. We are talking about $2,500 failed! I wasn’t really surprised, although I was shocked, three hose failures in a couple of miles indicated something serious is probably wrong. I asked him if it was even worth fixing and he said Well, it depends on how much you love it. My first thought was that anybody who would say that was a pretty good guy to work on a car I did, in fact, have real feelings for.

At some point during the trip, I think just after we abandoned the Rover, Courtney said something along the lines of That Rover put us all through this so it could get to a good repair shop and now it has found it. It reminded me of a similar comment by a fellow Obama campaign worker in 2008, while we were running tallies on voter contacts, I think God made us suffer through Bush so we could get Obama. Both sentiments seem improbable, but then I think of the quote of $4,000 to $7,000 I just got for the same work done here in the Bay Area; I think of how different our country has become under Obama than it was just ten years ago under Bush; I think of all the places the Rover could have blown a head gasket; and I think, Well, maybe they are right.

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Part One: Here

Part Two: Here

Part Three: Here 

Part Four: Here

Part Five: Here

Death Valley Easter Trip 2013: Red Wall Canyon

I woke up early on our last full day in the Death Valley area and went for a short walk. It looked like everybody else was sleeping in and the day was dawning cool and still.

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Death Valley 2013-2871When I got back to camp, I realized that JR hadn’t slept in, just his bag had. He was up earlier than me and had gone for a longer walk. Finally, everybody got up, JR came back to camp, we all caffeinated in our favorite way, and we drove down valley to the closest we could get to Red Wall Canyon. Red Wall is a canyon in the Grapevine Mountains at the top of the third fan from the left in this very much vertical exaggerated screen shot from Google earth. We parked at the bend of the yellow Scotty’s Castle Road.

Red Wall

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Our path was up the fan to the reddest looking hole in the mountains. Walking up a fan in the desert is totally different from any other kind of hiking I can think of. Around where we live on the San Francisco Peninsula, or in a forest, or in the Sierras, on those hikes, the cars – usually in an authorized parking lot – disappear when we walk away because, following the trail, we walk around something like trees or a ridge. Walking up the fan to Red Wall, the cars just got smaller. We walk completely in the open across terrain that is both unendingly similar in all directions and radically different every ten feet. There is no trail or, even right path. The Park Rangers encourage hikers to spread out so as not to leave traces and everybody ends up walking their idea of the best way up.

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When we stop, we collect, then we spread out again.

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Death Valley 2013-9641As we enter the canyon proper, we start finding shade and places to stop for lunch (lunch for most of us, a place to climb for Courtney).

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Deeper into the canyon, the fan gets steeper and narrower.

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I am not positive that it is a immutable law of nature but every canyon seems to be graced by a dryfall or a series of dryfalls. Of course Red Wall is no exception. First there was a small dryfall,- almost a step – then, for all practable purposes a dead-end. (I have read that the canyon becomes easy again after the harder dryfall but we turned around there.)

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After the turn around, JR took our official group portrait, on a ledge, in front of a distorted rock outcrop.

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The ledge, by itself is worth looking at.

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These lines are layers of sediment that were laid down in a sea – probably shallow because the rock is red indicating the presence of oxygen – off the west coast of North America. Then, about 15 million years ago, give or take a month,  something raised it up1 so that the ancient seafloor has now become the mountains were are walking through.

Once we turn around, it is all down hill.

1. The something probably being an ancient Plate – the almost completely  subducted Farallon Plate – which was once between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate that are now rubbing together at the San Andres Fault zone.

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By the time we get back on the open fan, the day has cooled and we are boogying along.

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Very roughly, the fans are composed of flat areas with washed out gullies in between. Going down, it is much easier to see the flat areas which is often referred to as desert pavement and present easy walking. The combination of wind and time – lots of time – has sorted and flattened the rocks and they are often covered in a thin, dark, layer of  manganese oxide called desert varnish.

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Walking down the fan fast – and it is hard not to walk fast – is a walking meditation. Everything else falls away – atleast for me – but the next step and the direction of the step after that. The cool air, the ease of the walk, the canyon behind us, and the huge space ahead, all contribute to the meditation. It is both relaxing and exhilarating (that’s Gina and Michele in the center of the picture).

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Then in the distance are the cars and all is right with the world (if you are into that sort of thing).

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Part One: Here

Part Two: Here

Part Three: Here 

Part Four: Here

Part Five: Here

Next: Going home here

Death Valley Easter Trip 2013: above Ubehebe 2

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My favorite time of day is late afternoon (oh! and maybe early morning when the world is coming alive). Especially when hiking. It is  that time on an all day hike when the hike part of the hike is over, and we are wandering home (or back to camp). Usually in the afternoon shade, the air still warm, and almost always going down hill. In the Sierras, it would often be across a soft meadow, in the desert, it might be down a fan or a ridge. Here it is back to Ubehebe Crater, on the far side from the crowds, with a backdrop that is immense.

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Death Valley 2013-As the day was winding down, it was still very windy with rain squalls moving through the hills at the north end of Death Valley wash. Our plan had been to drive back to out previous camp site and camp there another night but, when we got there, it was still pretty windy. Michele led a movement to drive around until we found a dry wash where we could camp out of the wind. The first couple that we investigated were at low points in the road and I was concerned that we  would get too much dust if a car came by.

At one surreal point, we were in a gully when a – seemingly – unending group of Rovers drove by.  Driving even at moderate speed on a dirt road produces alot of dust, and, typically, drivers will spread out so as not to be driving in somebody else’s dust cloud. In this case, three or four Rovers – both Land and Range – would go by , quickly and grouped together driving in a mutual dust cloud with their windows rolled up and, presumably, their air conditioners on – then a space; the dust would settle, and then another group. Thinking of my poor Range Rover all alone in Minden – all alone, cold – it was very strange.

Finally, we found a suitable gully and moved in.

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For Easter dinner, we had asparagus  eggs, baby potatoes, and – big surprise – chocolate Easter eggs. Then we lite a campfire and watched and felt the day end.

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Part One: Here

Part Two: Here

Part Three: Here 

Part Four: Here

Next: Red Wall Canyon here